Solar Battery Size Calculator
By Frank Zale · Last updated
Work out the battery bank for a camper van, RV, caravan or motorhome. Enter what you actually run each day and this sizes the amp-hours you need, allowing for usable depth of discharge and cold weather.
1. What do you run each day?
| Appliance | Watts | Hours/day | Wh/day | Remove |
|---|
2. Your bank
Battery you need
Daily use
0 Wh
Bank size
0 Ah
- Stored energy needed
- 0 Wh
- Usable depth
- 80%
- 100Ah batteries
- 0 ×
- 200Ah batteries
- 0 ×
A 0.8 cold derate is applied. LiFePO4 must not be charged below 0 °C without a heater.
Show the math
How the battery calculation works
Battery capacity is quoted in amp-hours, but what you actually consume is watt-hours. The conversion runs through your system voltage, and the amount you can safely take out runs through depth of discharge:
Amp-hours = (daily Wh × days of backup) ÷ (system volts × depth of discharge)
Depth of discharge is where most online figures quietly mislead. A 100 Ah battery does not give you 100 Ah. LiFePO4 gives about 80% of its rating in regular use; AGM and flooded lead-acid give about 50%. That single difference is why a lithium bank half the rated size often outperforms a lead-acid one.
A worked example
Take a common setup: a 45 W compressor fridge running 10 hours, a 25 W roof fan for 8, 15 W of lights for 4, a 65 W laptop for 4, and 10 W of phone charging for 3. That is 1,000 Wh a day.
With two days of backup at 12V on LiFePO4: 1,000 × 2 ÷ (12 × 0.8) = about 209 Ah. On AGM the same requirement needs 334 Ah — and roughly three times the weight.
Common bank sizes, and what they actually cover
The amp-hour figure is easier to judge against real builds than in isolation. These are LiFePO4 banks at 12V with two days of autonomy:
| Bank | Usable energy | Supports about |
|---|---|---|
| 100 Ah | 960 Wh | 480 Wh/day. Fridge, fan, lights, phones. Weekend use. |
| 200 Ah | 1,920 Wh | 960 Wh/day. Adds a laptop and a router. Part-time. |
| 300 Ah | 2,880 Wh | 1,440 Wh/day. Full-time with Starlink and occasional induction. |
| 400 Ah | 3,840 Wh | 1,920 Wh/day. Heavy electric cooking, or genuine winter autonomy. |
Notice the pattern: the usable daily figure is roughly half the stored energy, because you are carrying two days of it. Asking for three days instead of two raises the bank by 50% for the same appliances, which is usually more expensive than adding the solar to refill a smaller bank faster.
Four things that change the answer
Days of autonomy. This is the single biggest lever, and it is a judgement call rather than a calculation. Two days suits most travel: it covers an overcast day without leaving you anxious. Full-timers in northern winters often want three. If you drive most days and run a DC-DC charger, one can be enough, because the alternator refills the bank whether the sun cooperates or not.
Chemistry. Switching this calculator from LiFePO4 to AGM raises the required amp-hours by 60%, because usable depth falls from 80% to 50%. The weight difference is larger still. A 200 Ah LiFePO4 bank weighs roughly 25 kg; the 320 Ah of AGM needed to match it is well over 80 kg, which is real payload in a van that is already close to its limit.
Cold. The freezing-weather option applies a 0.8 derate, which is the honest planning figure rather than a worst case. The harder constraint is not capacity but charging: LiFePO4 must not be charged below 0 °C at all without an internal heater or a warmed compartment. A bank you cannot recharge is a bank you are slowly emptying.
System voltage. Moving to 24V halves the amp-hour figure for the same stored energy, because amp-hours are energy divided by voltage. The stored watt-hours are identical. This does not make the battery cheaper, but it does make every cable in the system thinner.
Where people get this wrong
Sizing the battery before measuring the load. The daily watt-hour figure drives everything. A bank chosen from a forum recommendation is a guess about someone else's fridge.
Treating the rated capacity as usable. A 100 Ah battery is not 100 Ah of usable energy in any chemistry. This is the most common reason a build that looked adequate on paper runs out overnight.
Buying battery instead of solar. A bigger bank stores more but refills no faster. If you are consistently arriving at morning with an empty bank, the array is undersized, not the battery.
What this calculator does not decide
The bank is only one part of the system. You still need enough solar to refill it, a charge controller sized to the array, and cable and fuses rated for the current. The full calculator sizes all of those together, and the method behind every figure is written out in full.
If you want the reasoning rather than the tool, the amp-hours guide works through the table by daily load, and LiFePO4 vs AGM sizing compares the two chemistries directly.
Frequently asked questions
+ How do I calculate what size battery I need?
Multiply your daily watt-hours by the days of backup you want, then divide by system voltage times usable depth of discharge — 0.8 for LiFePO4, 0.5 for AGM. A 1,000 Wh/day build with two days of backup at 12V on LiFePO4 needs about 209 Ah.
+ How many amp-hours do I need for van life?
Most van builds land between 100 Ah and 300 Ah of LiFePO4. Weekend use with a fridge and lights is comfortable on 100 Ah; full-time living with a laptop and Starlink usually needs 200 to 300 Ah. The figure follows from your daily watt-hours, not from the size of the van.
+ Why can't I use the full capacity of my battery?
Discharging below a safe threshold shortens battery life sharply. LiFePO4 tolerates about 80% of its rated capacity in regular use; lead-acid and AGM only about 50%. A 100 Ah AGM battery therefore gives roughly 600 Wh at 12V, while a 100 Ah LiFePO4 gives about 960 Wh.
+ Does cold weather change the battery size I need?
Yes. Capacity falls in the cold and LiFePO4 must not be charged below 0 °C without an internal heater. This calculator applies a 0.8 derate when you tick freezing weather, which is the honest planning figure for winter travel.